Cuyahoga Valley National Park

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Cuyahoga Valley National Park is proof that national parks don't need to be remote wilderness to be extraordinary. Nestled between Cleveland and Akron in northeastern Ohio, this 33,000-acre park protects the Cuyahoga River valley — a green corridor of forests, wetlands, rolling farmland, and historic canal infrastructure that has been a gathering place for humans for thousands of years. Established as a national park in 2000 (it was a national recreation area before that), Cuyahoga Valley is consistently one of the most visited national parks in the country, welcoming more than two million people annually — more than Grand Teton or Acadia. Yet for all that traffic, it retains a genuine sense of wildness. The river that runs through it was once so polluted it literally caught fire in 1969, an event that helped spark the modern environmental movement and the creation of the Clean Water Act. Today the Cuyahoga flows clean enough for kayakers and blue herons. The park's centerpiece, Brandywine Falls — a 65-foot cascading waterfall framed by a historic farmstead — is one of Ohio's most photographed natural landmarks. The Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath Trail, running 87 miles through and beyond the park, follows the route of the historic 19th-century canal that connected the Great Lakes to the Ohio River and transformed Ohio into an economic powerhouse. A scenic railroad still carries passengers through the valley in vintage cars.

The Ohio and Erie Canal Towpath Trail is the spine of the park — a flat, paved multi-use path following the historic canal towpath that is ideal for walking, running, and cycling through the heart of the valley. It connects to the larger trail network around Cleveland and Akron. Brandywine Falls is the park's most popular destination: a 1.5-mile round-trip boardwalk trail through hemlock forest leads to an elevated viewing platform above the 65-foot cascade. Arrive early on weekends — the parking lot fills by 9 a.m. The Ledges Trail (2.2-mile loop) winds through a landscape of massive Berea sandstone ledges and overhangs that formed 320 million years ago; the Ice Box area between the ledges stays cold enough to retain ice into summer. The Beaver Marsh Boardwalk (off the Towpath near Ira Road) is one of the best wildlife viewing spots in Ohio, with beavers, great blue herons, and turtles reliably present. The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad operates excursion trains from Akron and Independence from spring through fall — you can ride the train one way and hike back along the Towpath.

The Cuyahoga River restoration has been a remarkable ecological success story. Great blue herons nest in rookeries along the river and are seen fishing in nearly every section of the park. Beaver activity is abundant — look for gnawed trees and mud lodges throughout the wetlands. Bald eagles have returned to nest in the valley after decades of absence. White-tailed deer are everywhere, and wild turkeys are increasingly common. The hemlock ravines shelter Louisiana waterthrushes, a warbler species that nests along cold, rocky streams. River otters have been reintroduced and are occasionally spotted by lucky kayakers.

There is no entrance fee for Cuyahoga Valley National Park — one of the wonderful things about this accessible, urban park. The park is open year-round; the Towpath Trail and most trails are accessible even in winter with snowshoes or microspikes on icy sections. The Canal Visitor Center (7104 Canal Rd., Valley View) and Happy Days Visitor Center are open daily. There is no in-park camping, but Stanford House Hostel (in the park) offers budget-friendly lodging. The Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad tickets are purchased separately (cvsr.org). Peak season for waterfall visits is spring after snowmelt.

The park runs along the Cuyahoga River between Cleveland and Akron, straddling Summit and Cuyahoga counties. Multiple highway access points exist: from I-77, take exit 149 (Rockside Road) for the northern end. From I-271 south, exit at Chagrin Blvd. Boston Mill Visitor Center is at 6947 Riverview Rd., Peninsula, OH. Cleveland Hopkins International Airport (CLE) is about 20 miles northwest; Akron-Canton Airport (CAK) is about 20 miles south.

Parking at Brandywine Falls fills by 9 a.m. on weekends year-round — arrive early or use the Towpath Trail from a less crowded trailhead and walk in. The railroad's Bike Aboard program lets cyclists load bikes on the train, ride one direction, and cycle back on the Towpath — a wonderful car-free adventure. Fall foliage in October turns the valley into a brilliant patchwork of red and gold, making it one of the best times to visit. The park's proximity to the cities means plenty of excellent restaurants and lodging in Peninsula, Akron, and Cleveland.